TideLog Posts Tagged “PC”

Destruction Derby 2 was one of the games I got with my Playstation 1 in 1998, it was also one of the games that got me hooked on smash-em-up car games, and racing games in general. Burnin’ Rubber on my Amstrad CPC464+ in 1992 was the first racing game I ever played.

Seeing as DD1 & 2 are classed as vintage, I don’t think Psygnosis will mind it being shared for free, as you can’t even buy it new anymore, so here are both games for PC. I’ve set both games up as standalone with an install of DOSBox, and zipped it up.

Download links

It’s hosted on my company server over at www.kitamuracomputers.net, CLICK HERE to download the RAR archive.

Usage

All you need to do is use WinRAR or a free alternative to extract the RAR. Then run either “Start Destruction Derby 1.bat”, or “Start Destruction Derby 2.bat”, and away you go! All save functionality works fine, you can save replays, save games and game configs just fine!

Enjoy these classic smash-em-ups!

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Some manufacturers have inexpensive flat rate service policies for power supplies. If you are not inclined or not interested in doing the diagnosis and repair yourself, it may be worthwhile to look into these. In some cases, £25 will get you a replacement supply regardless of original condition. However, this is probably the exception and replacements could run more than the total original cost of the equipment – especially as in the case of most TVs and many computer monitors, where the power supply is built onto the main circuit board.

Nothing really degrades in a switchmode power supply except possibly the electrolytic capacitors (unless a catastrophic failure resulted in a total meltdown) and these can usually be replaced for a total cost of a few pounds. Therefore, it usually makes sense to repair a faulty supply assuming it can be done reasonably quickly (depending on how much you value your time and the down time of the equipment) and, of course, assuming that the equipment it powers is worth the effort. Most replacement parts are readily available and kits containing common service components are also available for many popular power supplies (such as those found in some terminals, Macintosh and other Apple computers, various brands of video monitors, and some TVs and VCRs).

Where an exact replacement power supply is no longer available or excessively expensive, it may be possible to simply replace the guts if space allows and the mounting arrangement is compatible. For example, for an older full size PC tower, the original power supply may be in a non-standard box but the circuit board itself may use a standard hole configuration such that an inexpensive replacement may be installed in its place.

Alternatively, many surplus electronics distributors have a wide selection of power supplies of all shapes, sizes, output voltages, and current capacities. One of these may make a suitable replacement for your custom supply with a lot less hassle than attempting to repair your undocumented original. It will likely be much newer as well with no end-of-life issues like dried up electrolytic capacitors to worry about. Of course, you must know the voltage and current maximum current requirements of each of the outputs in order to make a selection.

For the specific case of SMPSs for standard computers (PC, Macs, workstations, servers), it often doesn’t make sense to spend much time or money on repair. The cost of replacement of power supplies for PCs in particular is so low, that just buying a new power supply may be the best course of action. Furthermore, the risk of a faulty repair causing expensive or fatal damage to the mainboard and peripherals including total loss of all data stored on disk, makes repair a risk unless thorough testing can be performed before installation. However, it won’t hurt to check for obvious problems like bad connections. Put the dead one aside and considering trying to repair it if there isn’t anything better to do. Realistically, this will be never. 🙂

Whatever your decision, if you’re not confident, always seek professional help!

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The following probably account for 95% or more of the common SMPS ailments:

Problem: Supply appears dead, fuse blown.

Cause: Shorted switchmode power transistor and other semiconductors, open fusable resistors, other bad parts. Note: actual cause of failure may be power surge/brownout/lightning strikes, random failure, or primary side electrolytic capacitor(s) with greatly reduced capacity or entirely open – test them before powering up the repaired unit.

Problem: Supply dead, fuse not blown.

Cause: Bad startup circuit (open startup resistors), open fusable resistors (due to shorted semiconductors), bad controller components.

Problem: One or more outputs out of tolerance or with excessive ripple at the line frequency (50/60 Hz) or twice the line frequency (100/120 Hz)

Cause: Dried up main filter capacitor(s) on rectified AC input.

Problem: One or more outputs out of tolerance or with excessive ripple at the switching frequency (10s of kHz typical)

Cause: Dried up or leaky filter capacitors on affected outputs.

Problem: Audible whine with low voltage on one or more outputs

Cause: Shorted semiconductors, faulty regulator circuitry resulting in overvoltage crowbar kicking in, faulty overvoltage sensing circuit or SCR, faulty controller.

Problem: Periodic power cycling, tweet-tweet, flub-flub, blinking power light.

Cause: shorted semiconductors, faulty over voltage or over current sensing components, bad controller. These symptoms are often very evident on many eMachines stock PSU’s, and other cheaply made supplies.

In all cases, bad solder connections are a possibility as well since there are usually large components in these supplies and soldering to their pins may not always be perfect. An excessive load can also result in most of these symptoms or may be the original cause of the failure. And don’t overlook the trivial: a line voltage select switch in the wrong position or between positions (possibly by accident when moving the supply, particularly with PCs), or damaged.

Note that a PSU’s maximum output load should not be held for normally more than 60 seconds, as at full load the circuitry will get hot, and can trip fuses. Excessive overloading will shorten the life of the supply.

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