TideLog Archive for the “Software” Category

Older scripts still use this, and it’s causing me headaches. Luckily I found out why it’s happening. Recent versions of MySQL require you to use ENGINE=MyISAM instead.

Simply load any.sql or .php scripts into a text editor, and use Find Replace! Replace all instances of  TYPE=MyISAM with ENGINE=MyISAM and your problem will go away!

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Uniwill don’t provide BIOS’es on their website, and neither do Novatech. My P55IM is officially a Novatech Alpha R Pro, and you’ll remember from my last experience with Novatech trying to get a BIOS for my Novatech branded Clevo M670 that it was a nightmare, and also that Clevo do not provide BIOS files, they instead referred me to Novatech.

Well, Uniwill build the vast majority of Fujitsu Siemens laptops (now just Fujitsu since Siemens sold their stake back to Fujitsu), and that includes the P55IM, which is badged as the Amilo Xi2428, and the Novatech Alpha R Pro. The best bit of it is that Uniwill nor Novatech have BIOS updates, but Fujitsu do, and regularly. There’s been a few releases for the Xi 2428 P55IM, and they can be flashed on to all versions of the machine, including the P55IM-1, and P55IM-5.

To do it, download the update from FSC by looking for the Xi 2428, boot from a Hiren’s Boot CD into the Mini Windows XP environment, and run the EXE from there. I couldn’t get it to run under Win 7 or Vista, nor could I on my old Amilo Li 1818. You’ll then have a Fujitsu Siemens Amilo BIOS boot screen, and the machine referred to as an Xi 2428 in the BIOS and DXDiag!

Your drivers will re-install as the IRQ maps are changed by the update, so don’t panic when your system looks weird on reboot!

Further to that I’ve edited the BIOS file using Kassie’s Phoenix BIOS Editor, and have replaced the Manufacturer and Model string to a Kitamura one, and put our splash screen on it! Don’t ask me how, I’m experienced at it, and it isn’t easy doing a BIOS chip desolder and Willem chip wipe and program if it goes wrong, thankfully I know how, and have the facilities.

NOTE: Don’t download the 1.16C version. FSC set the CPU fan on permanent full to try to counter the nVidia GPU problems. It doesn’t make a difference, and is annoying. Download the 1.14C instead.

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I found this out the hard way, but fixed my problem myself, being an advanced techie. I installed Race Driver 3 under Windows 7 64bit on my P55IM, and ever since it asked for a reboot and tried to install a StarForce driver, the system wouldn’t start on it’s own. The Starting Windows screen comes up and sticks for ages, and the Windows animation doesn’t appear, instead the machine boots straight into Startup Recovery.

This finds a problem, but cannot fix it, so the system will still NOT START. Here’s how to fix it:

1. Turn off your computer, and as Windows is about to start, hit F8

2. Hit enter on “Disable Driver Signature Enforcement”. The system will now start normally, but slower than usual, and you might get a warning from Windows that the StarForce driver is corrupt and/or incompatible, and it has been disabled. This won’t fix it permanently, we now need to delete the driver.

3. Open a command prompt, and one by one, right click the window and paste each of these lines in, hitting Enter after each one. You won’t get confirmation, it’ll just go to a new prompt:

DEL c:\windows\system32\drivers\sfsync03.sys
DEL c:\windows\system32\drivers\sfdrv01.sys
DEL c:\windows\system32\drivers\sfhlp02.sys

4. Uninstall Race Driver 3. You can do this anytime, either before or after this step, but the game doesn’t work anyway without the driver, and doesn’t uninstall it as part of the uninstall routine, so do it anyway round.

5. Reboot, and you’re done!

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I’ve been working on a new mod for Saints Row 2 on PC. I’m a member over at The Row, and have been working with the guys to fix the silly vehicle powertrain characteristics of some vehicles. This is a little mod I’ve done to fix some of the big and small vehicles in SR2 that use Front Wheel Drive (FWD), that should really be Rear Wheel Drive (RWD). I’ve also increased torque and max speed on the slower vehicles.

Tidosho’s Vehicle Powertrain Mod is born!

Tidosho's Vehicle Powertrain Mod Logo by Kalahee from The RowThe vehicles I’ve fixed are:

Septic Avenger

Stilwater Municipal

MixMaster

Bear APC

Voyage

Topher

Go!

Komodo

KeyStone

Overall, they’re much more fun to drive. The Topher, Komodo, and Go especially have been sped up considerably, with more set off power. In the future, improvements will include gear additions, to extend power and speed.

To download my Mod, visit my TVPM Release Thread to get the latest version. Also, to discuss it, visit my TVPM Discussion Thread over at The Row. My mod has also been integrated into The Gentlemen of The Row (GoTR) Mod, which is a massive mod with many fixes, features and unlockables by the community at The Row. Click HERE to visit the GoTR Mod thread.

Combined, the GoTR Mod makes SR2 so much more fun and enjoyable!

Register, and say Hi to us all!

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I had one of the good oldie Liteon DD-A100X DVD Recorders in for repair today. I’ve got one of these beauties myself, and they’re really cute! The power supply was whining on Standby making a fizzing noise, the DVD recorder actually powered up, until a disc was inserted, then it shut down, with a scream from the PSU. This told me straight away that there was a failed capacitor on the PSU board.

There was. It had burst, and was slightly burnt where the vent had burst. Checking the terminals of the cap solder pads after removing it revealed a fluctuation, which I knew was an in-line resistor. After I replaced the two components, the supply was fine, and the recorder read discs again. My standard procedure when I repair a DVD recorder is to upgrade the firmware, and remove Macrovision. Any FW before 2007 on these Liteons is buggy, I know from my own machine, so I’ll walk you through it.

Checking current firmware revision

To check your current firmware, look at the label on the right side of your machine, there should be a white sticker with a barcode and a silver rating plate. On the barcode sticker it looks like this:

Model: DD-A100(3902205216)

S/N: 002648605362 – – Manufactured Date: November 2006

||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||

F:LNQGE032*1 – – D:BC70 – – HI-POT OK – – MADE IN CHINA

It is the F: and D: numbers that are important. The F: is the Firmware revision, and in this case the upgrade version we’re going to install is LNQGE034, so we’re OK, the upgrade is newer. The D: number is the Drive software version, which doesn’t matter, as this latest FW doesn’t have a drive upgrade with it.

Please note I CANNOT BE HELD LIABLE for damage due to mistakes or hardware errors, or injury that may occur from you performing this procedure. You do it at your OWN RISK!!

This procedure is for the LITEON DD-A100X ONLY, other machines are NOT COVERED here! ILO Hacker does many Liteon clones, but CHECK FIRST before doing it!

1. Download ILO Hacker

ILO Hacker is a great little tool. This program removes Macrovision, sets Region Free, and enables LP Record Mode if the firmware does not have it. This will work for future firmware releases (and already has, without having to be updated!). This is because the program searches for the correct area of the firmware to hack, and then hacks it for you! Works for *ALL LiteOn LVW-XXXX and ILO firmwares (*except LiteOn model LVW-5101)

It should also work for Daytek and Gateway and Philips Clones. (ILO is a rebranded LiteOn). All we need to do is run ILO Hacker, load the firmware, let ILO do its work, and then flash (or reflash if you’re hacking current FW. You can’t dump without a Debug tool, which I have, as it solders to a header on the motherboard, and also allows me to do bad flash recovery).

Click HERE to download it. Extract it anywhere you like, it doesn’t need installing. Keep it handy in case Liteon release new firmware, which I doubt as the machine’s 4 years old, and discontinued.

Download latest FW from Liteon

I’ve saved you the job, as I already have the latest from 2007, just in case they ever remove it, it’s permanently on TideLog. Click HERE to download it. Next, extract the contents using WinRAR or similar.

Hack with ILO Hacker

Open ILO Hacker. Leave the two checkboxes ticked. The DD-A100X already has LP mode, so this won’t make any modifications anyway. See the button labelled “Select Firmware File”? Hit it! Then browse to the .DA0 file you extracted.

It’ll make the possible changes, and save the hacked firmware in a Hacked folder relative to wherever the original firmware was extracted. How easy was that? Now all we need to do is get the firmware into your machine’s innards….

First, though, we’ll refresh the machine. This is optional, as not all A100 machines have it. In the Setup menu of the unit, look for “Restore” and select it. (The unit will do a system restore).

Create the firmware upgrade CD

This is another easy step. You require Nero, or similar burning program, and a blank CD, I recommend you use a CD-RW, as the firmware is only 3MB, so if you use a write-once disc, it’ll be wasted. Burn the .DA0 file to the root of the CD, no other folders or files, and finalize the disc.

Upgrade the firmware

Simply turn your Liteon on, pop the disc in, and the firmware upgrade will start. Follow the instructions on screen, and when done, remove the disc.

You now have a Region Free & Macrosvision Free recorder!

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