TideLog Archive for the “PS3” Category
I saw this topic being discussed on Sony’s own forums the other day, and I had such a massive laugh! If the people who claimed to be PS3 repairers ACTUALLY knew anything about electronics, the world would be in serious danger! One guy posted about his cooling fan ramping up to full speed when he turned the console on, you should have seen the responses. They ranged from, “Ooh, your PSU is dying”, “You’re about to get the YLOD!” and most laughably, “Your CPU/GPU needs reballing!”
These people obviously don’t know as much as they claim, all those supposed causes are NOWHERE near the real cause. I’ll go into some real electronics knowledge to help people here. The fan ramping up on a PS3 or an Xbox is caused by the temperature diode being faulty.
In computers, the chip temperature is measured by a temperature sensor. Usually it’s a diode, mounted under the chip. On some standard PC motherboards, if you look in the middle of the CPU socket, you’ll see a blue lump on legs, this is the sensor diode.
There are two types of temperature diode. A Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC) diode is a diode whose resistance DECREASES as the temperature rises. So, when the chip is at full temperature, the resistance of the diode is at 0. The other type of diode is a Positive Temperature Coefficient (PTC), where the resistance STARTS at 0 when the chip is COLD, and goes full when HOT.
The control chip uses this resistance value by converting it from a resistance value to a temperature value, to set the fan speed, and to shut down the system if it’s too hot by sending a signal to the chipset. The converted value is also used by temperature monitoring apps and software.
It is all the same in automotive scenarios, with the engine temperature and radiator cooling fan, the same ramp up symptom occurs due to temperature sensor failure.
When the diodes fail, each type of diode fails in a certain way. An NTC diode normally fails stuck at 0 (zero) resistance, meaning the system thinks the chip is really hot (because the cold reading should be full resistance), when in fact it is still cold, so the fan will ramp up as soon as the system is started cold. It may also result in shutdowns, even though the chip isn’t hot because the fan is running full tilt.
A PTC diode starts cold at 0 anyway, so the system won’t panic at first. However, the controller will soon realise something is up when the CPU starts reporting high loads, but the temperature is still reading 0 instead of a higher value. The fan will not increase speed in this case, so the temperature will rise sharply, resulting in an eventual shutdown. This will cause solder damage if the problem isn’t fixed, but it doesn’t happen BECAUSE of solder damage!
See, nothing to do with YLOD, try going to electronics school, kiddies 😉 When you switch a PS3 on and the fan kicks up to full speed then down again, that’s the system running a sensor and fan control test 🙂 If the fan stays on full on cold start instead of slowing down, you have a sensor issue 😉
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Posted by Tidosho in Console Repair, Consoles, Consumer Electronic Repair, Electronics, Gaming, PS3, Work, tags: FAT, Firmware 3.55, PS3, PS3 Jig, remarry blu ray drive, Slim
UPDATE: All my development PS3’s have now died. I have become tired of keep reballing and soldering them, only for them to die again 6 months later. I have now given up on Sony altogether, and only focus on Xbox personally, so I can no longer assist with re-marry issues
This is something I’ve done about 4 times. If a PS3 stops reading discs, it’s either the laser head unit itself that’s failed (99%), the drive board has overheated and died (1%). If the drive board has failed, you can put another logic board of the same model drive on, but it won’t work straight off. Like the Xbox 360, the PS3’s drive is electronically “married” to the motherboard using software encryption. But, unlike the Xbox, you can’t just take the drive out of a PS3 and connect it to a SATA PC to dump the keys, as the PS3 has a non standard ribbon connection. There are also no solder methods for the PS3 that I’m aware of.
The PS3 Blu-Ray drive won’t work at all if straight swapped, it won’t read PS1/PS2 (on backwards-compatible consoles) or PS3 games, Blu-Ray movies, DVD discs, or even audio CD’s, whereas a straight-swapped Xbox drive will read DVD’s and audio CD’s until the drive key is flashed across via SATA. Fortunately the PS3 drive can be “married” to restore full functionality, but only under certain circumstances such as with supported firmware. Professional repair guys like me have a service mode “jig”, which is a special USB dongle that puts the console into Service mode, and automatically remarries the drive. You can do it with a PSP and a USB stick at home, here I’ll show you how:
NOTE: This does not work on Slim PS3’s. The Slim consoles have the drive control circuitry embedded into the main motherboard like the old PS2’s did, so if it stops reading discs and you’ve tried a new laser all to no avail, you’re out of luck, you’ll need a new whole motherboard.
1. Make sure your PS3 is on OFFICIAL Sony firmware v3.55. If you are on v3.56 DO NOT attempt the steps in my article, your console will BE STUCK in Service mode. The console doesn’t work very well in Service mode, games often lock and the console freezes running certain apps, if you get into Service Mode on v3.56 you CANNOT get out again.
2. Your PSP MUST be jailbroken, and running custom firmware. I have done it using v5.50-GEN-B and can confirm it works on both FAT and Slim PS3’s running v3.55 FW.
3. Download these files (they’re hosted on this blog so won’t expire):
a. PSPJig v1.00 – this file puts the console into factory mode.
b. PS3 OFW 3.55 – This is the official Sony V3.55 Firmware. Not added to blog yet as having trouble uploading it. Google for now 🙂
c. LV2Diag.self-get-out-factory-mode – This is the file we’ll use to get out of Factory Mode.
d. PS3 Remarry v3.55 – These are the files we’ll use to actually remarry the drive.
4. To keep this article short and to the point, I’ll assume you already have the correct firmwares on your PSP and PS3. To start off, take a blank FAT formatted USB pendrive (minimum 512MB), and extract the files from the remarry zip into the root of it. Then extract the v3.55 original firmware PUP file into the root as well. DON’T extract the firmware into a PS3/UPDATE structure like you would if you were updating the system software, it won’t work, the file needs to be in the root.
The structure of your pendrive should look like this:
- cfg/standalone.cfg (A folder named cfg with a standalone.cfg file inside it)
5. Then install PS3Jig onto your jailbroken PSP by copying the PS3Jig folder out of the zip into your PSP/GAME folder. Start your PSP and check that there’s a PS3Jig icon under the Games menu on the PSP XMB, it will be a PS3 icon as below:
Don’t run it, as you can’t exit out of it without pulling your battery, this will reset your PSP’s clock and date!
6. Next, connect your PSP to your PSP’s first left USB port, start PS3Jig on your PSP. DO NOT connect your USB drive with the remarry files yet. You will see a screen similar to this:
Note that you’ll only see the above message up to “USB Driver Started”. You won’t see the rest until you start your PS3 up.
7. Plug your PS3 into power, and switch on the rear switch so the power light is red.
8. Now switch on your PS3 using the touch sensitive power strip, then immediately afterwards press EJECT. Your PS3 will sit there for a few seconds, and then shut down. You’ll now see the rest of the above screenshot following the “USB Driver Started” section.
9. Now, switch on your PS3 using the power button. It will now boot to the XMB, and you should see “FACTORY SERVICE MODE” written in a red box at the bottom right of the screen. If you see this, you can switch off again.If not, repeat the process. It isn’t time sensitive, apart from pressing Power and Eject.
Your PS3 will stay in service mode as long as you want, even after turning the power off fully so don’t worry about it coming out, we need to manually force it out, which we’ll do later. Remove the USB lead of your PSP, and pull its battery to power off, we don’t need it again. You need to pull the battery as holding the power switch won’t switch off, it simply sleeps and comes back to PS3Jig.
10. Now, connect your USB remarry drive that we created in Step 4 to the FURTHEST RIGHT USB port, and power your PS3 back on. You’ll come to a screen similar to this:
I recommend sticking a BD Movie disc in before you turn back on, as this will restore BD DRL license files, essentially they authorize the drive to the motherboard that it can play Blu Ray movies. There’s a BIG note here that I need you to read, see below:
a. If the ==DRIVE INIT== section at the top is GREEN, but all other sections are RED, the re-marry was SUCCESSFUL, but only the game disc, DVD and CD reads will work. Some people have reported that sticking a Blu Ray movie disc in DOES restore BD movie playback, but it still comes up NG and FAIL on the second section. You just need to play about. Boot back into the XMB still in Service mode, and see if a movie disc will play.
b. If you don’t put a BD disc in whilst doing this, don’t worry, you can do it again any time. The tool is a bit iffy on the success feedback, but you can’t do any damage, I tried different methods when I was learning the non-dongle way of doing remarries and never bricked anything.
c. The ==INSTALL SYSTEM SOFT== section will always be red, this is because the tool is set not to reinstall firmware. Some people use this method on downgraded consoles and end up with YLOD because of incorrect syscon hashes, so it is left off.
11. Finally, once you’re happy that everything works, turn everything off. In Service Mode, games won’t play very well, they often freeze, don’t worry about this, they’ll work in Normal mode, which we’re about to get the console back into. Delete everything off the USB drive, and put the LV2Diag.self file from the Exit-Service-Mode.zip into the root of it.
12. Connect it to the furthest right port of the PS3, power on, and it’ll do the power-on-beep-shutdown process again. Remove the USB drive, and power her on, you should now be back in Normal mode again, with drive functionality restored! Congratulations! Go get yourself a beer, enjoy those feelings of having achieved something brilliant, because it is great even after doing it for the 100th time for me!
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This is a guide on how to boot up your PlayStation 3 into Recovery Mode or PS3 Safe Mode, as it is called by Sony. It was introduced on PS3’s with the introduction of Firmware v2.50 or newer. The Recovery menu gives access to the factory setup options which can help fix many common PS3 system errors such as corrupted firmware data, corrupted system files or even force your PS3 to restore to a PS3 custom firmware. Pete, Kana and myself use this at Kitamura to recover bricked consoles, and after remarrying Blu-Ray Drives.
The menu has the following options: 1.Restart System, 2.Restore Default Settings, 3.Restore File System, 4.Rebuild Database, 5.Restore PS3 System and 6.System Update. Here’s a screenshot:
Here’s what you need to do to boot your PS3 into Recovery Mode…
Step 1: Turn off your Playstation 3.
Step 2: Hold the Power button down. The system will turn on and turn off once again.
Step 3: Once the system has been shutdown, press and hold the Power button again until you hear 2 consecutive beeps.
Step 4: When you hear the 2 beeps take your finger off power button. You will be prompted to plug in your controller via USB and then press the PS button. The Recovery Menu will pop up.
Recovery Menu Features:
This option boots your system as normal without changing any settings or files.
Restore Default Settings.
Restores all settings to default on the PS3, Networking, time zone, video, etc. This does the same as the Restored Settings option under XMB > Settings > System Settings > Restore to Defaults on your console. This should not delete your game saves or other saved content, including your user login.
Restore File System.
This will rewrite the filesystem and files that the PS3 uses to boot. This feature will help if your PS3 firmware becomes corrupted or semi bricked. This should not Delete any of your saved data and settings.
This can be a useful feature if you have lost files on your system for no apparent reason. Try using this feature to see if it can restore those files. This will also overwrite corrupted files within the database. This feature should not erase any of your saved data or settings. It works pretty much the same way as CheckDisk on Windows.
Restore PS3 System.
This will restore your system firmware to original including formatting the hard drive and deleting all of the data on the HDD, restoring all system settings to default. This will not take your system back to a previous Firmware release. Use this feature if your PS3 firmware become corrupted or semi bricked. This feature may require the ps3 update data inserted on a USB drive.
This will allow the user to update their PS3 console with new firmware that is the same version or higher via a USB Flash drive or other portable media, this will not allow you to update via an internet connection. This can useful if your PS3 firmware become corrupted or semi brick to the point PS3 can not boot. You will need a USB Flash drive or portable media device with the correct firmware and in the correct file structure to complete the update.
This option is also really useful as it forces Custom Firmware to install, because for example say you were on v3.55 Original, and tried to update to v3.55-kmeaw Custom via the XMB, it would fail upon restarting after copying the update from the pendrive to HDD. You should ALWAYS use Recovery Mode to install custom, and to also revert back to Original firmware.
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I just wanted to upgrade to the newest one, as it’s cooler, sexier, sleeker and more power efficient than even my ultra latest ’09 Elite, and has a bigger hard drive. My other excuse is that as I’m a repairer, obviously I need to study it and learn how it’s built, and now is the perfect time to do so. And, I need an excuse to get Kinect so Kassie and Mika will don their Lycra shorts and tops, and work out together on Kinect Fitness, because it’s really sweet watching two lady lovebirds keeping fit and having girly fun at the same time! I want an excuse to join in! We have a gym in our basement, but doing it in a virtual world, like the jogging on Wii, is much more pleasing!
The new S, or Slim as people are wrongly calling it (it isn’t slimmer, only shorter, so Xbox 360 Short is a better name) is not a whole new console. It is just a “reboot” or a refresh. The CPU, GPU, and eDRAM are on a single die, there’s a single large (less than whisper-quiet) fan keeping it cool, the power system has been overhauled, and there’s Wireless A/B/G/N wireless built in. The hard drive now lives in a compartment INSIDE the machine itself, with a panel that pops open at the touch of a button to remove or replace it. Note that you still can’t shove any size hard drive in like the PS3, but with 250GB to play with, even all my 35 games will fit and still have space. You can’t install games to the PS3’s HDD, unless you purchase them again and download them on PSN, which is pointless, takes ages, and is a waste if you already have the disc versions. Kinect also has a dedicated power port on the new S, older console owners will need a separate power adapter which comes with Kinect. Add to that Microsoft have dropped Memory Units, instead allowing you to use a standard USB Flash drive of any size instead, which is a nice, standard move. They’ve also added 2 more USB ports in place of the Memory Unit slots, taking the total number of USB ports to 5, compared to the PS3’s now pathetic 2, when it used to have 4, back when it was sort-of decent! Power and Eject are now touch sensitive, which is nice, as there’s no microswitches to wear out. The console also gives a nice gentle beep when ejecting, thanks to the inclusion of a piezo buzzer on the motherboard.
Other than that, your games will all still work, the dash is the same, and the console’s performance is no quicker or slower. If they had upgraded the speeds or hardware, developers would have had to rewrite everything, and this is not a new console, remember? Microsoft are looking to keep the 360 going for another 5 years, and Sony the PS3 for 10-15 years (how many more features it will lose I don’t know) before designing another.
The 360 S is great. It’s sexy, quiet (when games are run from the HDD, the optical drive is still noisy, but this is technically unavoidable due to the nature of optical drives), and is Microsoft’s way of saying, “Hey, we’ve learnt our lesson from the RRoD, and have improved.” And they have, massively. Using Pete’s S when he got it on launch I knew this was the upgrade for me. Sony can keep their pathetic featureless Blu-Ray player that takes ages loading games, I’m an Xbox man. And since I’ve never had trouble with MS consoles bar one 360 E74, and that my original Xbox 1 is modded, a nice 160GB HDD, is still going strong after 8 years, and has never had any faults, and otherwise still has stock parts, I’m proud of it!
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They’re always busy, but this year was even more so! Having so many family and friends has never been so fun! I love our new christmas present, Kassie sent Mika and me a brand new Samsung UN60C8000 60″ OLED 3D LCD TV, and it is the best TV I have ever seen! It isn’t available in the UK yet, only Japan and Australia, so it had quite a journey getting here, poor thing! What an amazing bit of kit, and it’s less than 4 inches thick!
Here’s our older 37″ BenQ HD TV in our “socialising” room, as Kassie calls it, in Birmingham, running one of Mika’s HD Japanese channels, streamed from upstairs . It looks smaller than it really is:
Our 37″ BenQ is being put in one of the guest bedrooms, the one Jill sleeps in when she visits, when the Sammy 60″ is in a permanent home replacing the BenQ. Our 50″ Sammy plasma has had pride of place in our main living room for as long as we’ve had it, and that is going in our main bedroom replacing another BenQ SK3731 37″ we have in there currently. My camera is knackered as you know, with the lens error, so I had to use a library image of the 60″ for now:
Monster, isn’t she? According to the web, it’s worth around $4,100, which makes that ¥333,558.73 in Yen. Kassie’s so nice to us all as a little family. Here’s an old shot of our bedroom, with Kassie’s guitar in the corner and our 37″ BenQ, and Blu-Ray player. The 50″ is going to feel huge in here:
We had Rikku and Jill (complete with her full Wii kit) over for Xmas dinner, and we all had a great time trying to beat Jill at Wii bowling, after 2 years none of us can beat a 10 year old girl, even her footie player mum!! I must be getting old, what’s wrong with me?? It’s just nice to spend time with those close to you, having drinks and getting merry, rolling around laughing throwing your arms about like a wild thing playing tennis or bowling, there’s not much that can replace that close bond. It’s what makes Christmas!
A friend of mine even bought me a PS3 Slim, which was a really nice gesture, but sadly, after 3 days it has gone back in its box, and the 360 sits in its place. I cannot stand a console that will only manage 720p on 99.99% of games, on a full-HD 60″ 3D TV, the aliasing is awful, even with the upscaler on low and off. It is quiet, but puts out more heat than my ’09 360 Elite, and is god-awful slow at loading most games. The only games I have that even try 1080p are Gran Turismo and FFXIII.
I’m sorry, but after Sony’s console started out having some kind of unique selling points, and has gone so pathetically featureless (you can’t even fully install games to the 320GB HDD as with the 360), and still has crap lasers, firmware and picture quality, I can see why the fanboys are so blissfully and arrogantly ignorant. They still continue to ridicule Microsoft, and the 360 “green tinge”? What? I’ve been repairing Xboxes since the first was released, and never seen this! I had a PS fanboy accuse me of not knowing the facts when I told someone most games only do 720p, just look on the boxes of 99.9% of PS3 games. It winds me up! Look at your “beloved” PS3 and actually see how it has gone downhill….!
Let me help you out, girls:
1. Where is your backwards compatibility?
2. Where’s your Other OS? We still have it, in the form of JTAG-ging. It’s a hack, but we can still use Linux! Neh, neh, ne ne neh!
3. Where’s your ability to install games to the HDD FULLY, rather than just texture and mesh cache?
4. Where has your card-reader and hoardes of USB ports gone?
5 Where are your MASSIVE 25-50GB games on Blu-Ray? Most PS3 games are re-engineered ports of 360, that take up no more than 7.5GB!!
6. And your 1080p res on ALL games, rather than just a paltry two, and the XMB, after nearly 5 years? Even the games that say 1080p on the box (Like my GTA4 test a few posts ago on Greg’s Sony Bravia 32″ LCD) only go to 720p!!
7. The PS3 is supposed to be all HD and 3D, supporting HDMI, yet guess what cable STILL comes with it that has since the Playstation 1? A standard SD composite AV cable!!!!!
8. Why are your lasers still failing in droves, just like the PS1 and PS2, huh? And the Slim still suffering “no video”, “not reading discs” and “no power” issues? There’s loads creeping up on eBay, isn’t there?
Yeah, PS3 fanboys, you missed those points, didn’t you? I’m a console repairer, a re-ball vacuum rework technician to boot, 13 years time served, and I know my consoles intimately. Your console is the same as what comes out of the rear of a bovine. Utter hot, curly, sloppy, steaming shite!! And you defend it to the death, you sad children. PS3 stands for Pile of Shit 3, and follows the Pile Of Shit 2, and the Pile Of Shit 1. PS1, PS2 and PS3. Piles of featureless, fault ridden, somehow-well-selling piles of steaming crap. I had all 3 personally, and got sick of repairing them when Sony told me there was no design faults and that the fault wasn’t covered. I’ll give my new PS3 Slim six months before asking my friend if she kept the reciept because there’s a fault! In fact, I better ask her now…..
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Posted by Tidosho in Console Repair, Consoles, Consumer Electronic Repair, Electronics, Gaming, Hobbies, PS3, Work, Xbox 360, tags: cheap fan, features removed, junk, laser faulty, not full HD, PS3
I’ve been using my PS3 for the last few days, on two different full HD TV’s, one, Greg’s TV, a 32″ LCD Full HD Sony Bravia, and Kassie’s Samsung 50″ Full HD TV, and I’m far from impressed. GTA4 on PS3 is supposed to (according to the box) be able to do either 720p, or 1080i/p. It never did 1080, except at the XMB, on both TV’s, whereas the 360 does full 1080p straight away!
The aliasing on the PS3 was terrible, on all the games I tried (FIFA 09/10, Stuntman, GTA4) and they all only hit 720. I’ve now decided to sell the PS3, and stick with my 360. I repaired a Slim yesterday, and the fan in that is the nastiest thing I’ve seen since a laptop:
The fan is all plastic, tacky, and typical of Sony downgrading. The PS3 has gone downhill ever since its release, and here’s my full list of faults:
1. Features have been removed (cardreader, PS1/PS2 compatibility, Other OS) that made it better than the Xbox in terms of utilities.
2. The games don’t run at full 1080 when they are supposedly supposed to, and they look aliased and god awful.
3. The PS3 FAT had just as many faults, if not more than the original 360 (discs not reading, video not working, YLOD, RLOD , total failure of the PSU because it got too hot). The 360 has only ever suffered mainly RRoD faults, and the occasional DVD read error. Playstations have had laser failures since the brick Playstation 1, they still haven’t learnt how to manufacture a laser correctly. I’ve never once had to fix a 360 with failed PSU or no video without reason (E74)
4. The Slim PS3 is junk, the components are shrunk, the fan is noisy and cheap, and the games STILL DO NOT run at full 1080. The only thing that makes the PS3 somewhat if at all better than the 360 is that it has a BluRay drive, which is a con anyway, as the same games on 360 fit on DVD, nd they’re better quality!!
5. Firmware “updates” break features. Take for example a FW upgrade that caused people’s BD drives to not read discs? And the recent 3.5 update where 3D discs are choppy and out of sync? Yeah, nice, Sony. Not. They’re acting like they created 3D, which they did not.
I’m normally unbiased in my repair work, but here is my conclusion: Sony is JUNK, JUNK, JUUUUUUNNNNNKKKKK!!!! I’m so glad I gave up on them after my 3rd PS3 laser replacement. They’re still as damn bad, if not worse. An insult to the Japanese, and I love the Japs, as my lil lady is a Jap, and proud of it, Sony just mar their electronics industry. At least Microsoft offered a 5 year warranty, and the new 360 Slim is superior to the older consoles, and all the shite Sony have ever put out. My 8 year old Xbox 1 is still strong, modded, but with all original parts except HDD, so go figure….
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I found out yesterday about PSJailbreak, and another method using your iPhone that can jailbreak the PS3 allowing you to use homebrew software, and allowing backups of games to run from an external HDD.
Too bad I’d already updated from 3.42 to 3.50, and they don’t work with 3.50. Darn! Morale of the story: Don’t update firmware unless you really have to. Well, I couldn’t access Playstation Network or Store without doing it, but I’m still pissed…..
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Posted by Tidosho in Console Repair, Consoles, Consumer Electronic Repair, Electronics, Gaming, Hobbies, Lifestyle, PS3, Tech, Work, tags: fan replaced, My PS3, working
The new fan arrived this morning, and I fitted it. It’s all working as it should, and I’ve been out and bought a wireless controller and GTA:IV so I can roadtest it doing some Serbian terrorism!
I might replace the power supply, as the one that’s fitted is one that gets quite hot. There’s a cool running one available, so I’ll give it a try to keep the system heat level down. The Other OS feature has been removed, someone’s already updated it to 3.30, which was a FW with it deactivated. Oh well, at least everything else works, DVD & Blu-Ray and PS1/PS2/PS3 games all work fine, so I’m happy!
Refurbishment and repair is what I love, and am good at it, I’ve made a lot of profit from electronics repair!
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Posted by Tidosho in Console Repair, Consoles, Consumer Electronic Repair, Electronics, Hobbies, PS3, Tech, Work, tags: broken fan, easily fixed, My new PS3
It arrived yesterday, and I stripped it today. The fan was jammed, it seems to be badly out of shape, the metal frame is bent and the fan coil assembly itself is slanted. It’s a 19 blade, so not one of the rubbish 15 blade ones Sony decided strangely to replace them with. The seller has used a hairdryer/heatgun in the vents to fix a previous YLOD, so the casing and heatsink plastic surround are warped.
Other than that, it powers, runs the XMB, and plays PS1 & BluRay games, and the hard drive works. I’m gonna get a new complete casing and a new fan is on its way via Special Delivery Next Day as I type, so it should be running again in no time! Here’s my total cost of ownership calculation for the stuff it needs:
Console from eBay with faulty fan and possible risk of YLOD = £69 inc £14 P&P
New complete casing to replace the heat warped one from the amateur hairdryer YLOD “fix” job of the old owner = £16
Used working 19 blade cooling fan = £16.98 inc P&P
Future BGA re-ball if it ever YLOD’s on me = £0 as I’m doing it myself
Possible future 120GB HDD upgrade = £30
Total = £138.98
So, still cheaper than buying a used fully working one, or a featureless Slim new. This 60GB FAT has the cardreader, PS1/PS2 backwards compatibility, and the Other OS feature. The Slim costs £229 without all that!!
Damaged repairable is the way to go if you have the skills and experience, which I have. I also don’t use towel, reflow or hairdryer tricks, only professional BGA re-ball, so I’m a winner!
Reflow must not be confused with re-ball. Re-flow is simply heating the component up to re-melt and bond broken solder, whereas re-balling involves renewing the solder balls completely and re-soldering with a hot air rework machine using more heat to ensure higher melting point. This reduces the risk of the solder melting at the console’s normal temperature.
You see? I’m not a bedroom enthusiast, like some of the “been in the console repair business 4 years” people that claim they can do it all because they’ve taken one console apart and watched YouTube. I’m a pro, I’ve been doing it since the Amstrad 464, before the Web or YouTube really existed!
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My ill PS3 hasn’t arrived for surgery yet, but while I’m waiting for her to show up, I thought I’d do a guide on taking one apart. Taking the PS3 apart is an involved process, and we don’t want to rush, so make sure you have at least a couple of hours spare to do this if it’s your first time. Also make sure you have proper lighting and the right tools.
This guide is good for all versions of the FAT PS3. I disassembled a 60GB model carcass I had knocking spare that was still in one piece. It has a completely blown motherboard due to a power surge, so I’ve not lost anything, but you’ll want to be extra careful!!
NOTE: This guide DOES NOT cover YLOD fixes. I do not use “fanboy enthusiast” reflow methods, and only use re-balling techniques, which involves specialist knowledge and expensive equipment. This article only covers teardown procedures.
You will need:
● Torx screwdriver
● Phillips head screw driver
● Small flathead screw driver (for removing the rubber foot)
● Somewhere with plenty of space that is well lit and that wont build up static electricity. (Mainly anywhere but carpet)
So, here’s my dodo-dead PS3…..all ready to be taken apart, for the third time, as it suffered two YLOD’s previously, before being professionally reballed by myself prior to its shocking total death and acquisition as scrap…..
On the left side of the console you will see some rubber feet. The first screw to be removed is underneath the rubber foot circled in red in the pic below. The warranty sticker covers it, so this will need to be removed (INVALIDATING YOUR WARRANTY, so be warned!) The foot can be pried out with a small screwdriver. Then underneath is a Torx security screw. You will either need a Torx screwdriver, or a flat head screwdriver that will fit in the screw. Once the screw is removed, set the foot and screw somewhere safe.
Once the screw is out, slide the top of the case to the left. It will require a bit of force to slide if you’re opening the console for the first time. After the top slides as far as it will go, lift the top and it should come off as below:
After the top is off, there will be another cover, the main system cover. You will need to remove the 7 long screws circled in red. Why Sony decided to give the PS3 a separate “top-hat” is beyond me, it would have been easier all as one, as with the PS2, unscrewing from underneath!
Once the 7 screws are removed (set them aside safe), gently lift up the back corners of the top half of the console. There are 2 small clips near the back you may need to undo with a small screw driver. Now the top of the console should just lift off (with a bit of gentle force) and you will see the guts of the PS3. The PS3 has a lot more guts than the 360, a bit way too much in my opinion, too much metal and plastic. Getting a 360 open is nowhere near as hard for me, it takes me less time, and the innards aren’t as cramped!
As you can see, and as I know from experience of Sony repairs, as with all their other consumer goods there’s tons and tons of metal, screws and ribbon cables! It’s as secure as GTA4’s Liberty City Penitentiary in here there’s so much metal, held down by so many screws!! Hence the weight! Wait till you see the cooling unit….
First, the power supply (The silver box on the left) has to be removed. Remove the screws circled in red, and take out the plug (next to the front left screw. See it?), the power supply will just lift out.
Also, take out the mains plug in the back of the power supply. The power supply should now be completely disconnected from the PS3. I like to disconnect the big rear cable first, I’m always cursing the thing when I do it last and I lift the PSU out without disconnecting it! It is tight, though, and probably easier to do after the screws are out so you can lift the supply out. I’m a glutton for punishment…..
After the power supply is removed, the Bluetooth board (in the 60GB models, it also has wireless) needs to be removed. Unscrew the 4 screws and unplug the ribbon cable and the board will just lift out. Note that you have to “flip” the brown tab on the ribbon socket, it isn’t a pull out type, so don’t try, you might damage it. Flip it up and away from you and the ribbon.
Now we need to remove the Blu-ray drive. This is quite easy. Lift the drive up about 2” and you will see a really wide ribbon cable, the data cable, connecting the drive to the motherboard. Unplug it. There will also be a plug near the front of the Blu-ray drive that controls the motors for the spindle and slot load/eject mechanism. Unplug it as well. The drive will then just lift out.
Underneath you’ll see the main data ribbon cable. This time, not a flip and release job, but a pull out clip. Pull it towards the ribbon:
Now you will (hopefully) see the same as what is below:
Next, we have to remove the small Power\Reset & Eject button circuit board. This board is attached to a small metal bracket. Remove the 4 screws holding the board and the metal bracket and unplug the small ribbon cable (a flip top!). The board should now easily lift out.
It’s time to remove the motherboard! To get it out, remove the screws circled in red in the pic below:
Once you’ve removed the screws, gently lift out the whole motherboard along with the back panel like I’ve shown below. Start from the back, where the vents are, and lift towards the front (away from you if the rear of the console is facing you). Make sure you have taken out the plastic HDD cover with the HDD sticker on it! Otherwise the clips on it will get bent!!
Make sure to support the whole assembly, as the heatsink system is darn heavy, you don’t want to drop anything. I had a friend dropped his board assembly back onto the base, damaging it, because he was only holding it with two fingers!
After the bottom of the PS3 case is out of the way, you can admire the huge monster cooling system on the bottom of the motherboard.
After you’re done marvelling at the hugeness of the fan, remove the plastic back panel. The are 4 small plastic clips (2 on either side of the motherboard) that you need to lift to take off the back panel. then, unscrew the fan screws, unplug its cable, and remove the huge mammoth fan:
Check out the size of the fan! (It looks a lot bigger in real life.) The first time I stripped a PS3, I realized a flaw that most fanboys seem to miss. The fan seems more like a cheap laptop fan with sleeve bearings, rather than the quality rifle bearing fans with tough plastic frame in the 360. Take a look, it looks cheap:
Anyway, back to the article. Flip the motherboard back over. Unscrew the 4 screws (circled in red) holding the 2 metal heatsink support brackets down. Once these screws are undone, take off the brackets:
It will now look like this, ready for the heatsinks to come off, so be careful moving it:
After that, flip the motherboard over again. Now gently pull up on the heat sink. Be gentle here. The cooling system will lift up off the CPU and GPU and come off completely. A bit of force will be required here as the heat sink will be stuck down to the CPU and GPU with white thermal paste, which has possibly cured and hardened.
Here again, my keen engineer eyes noticed a flaw. Look how close together the fins of the heatsink are. The fan has to PUSH the hot air through the tiny gaps. The 360’s fans PULL the heat AWAY from the heatsink, not push through it. It’s alright blaming solder and the CPU die size for the heat, but it’s the efficiency and quality of the heat transport system that matters too. In the case of the 360, it was more the solder and die size that causes RRoD failures, but the PS3 in my eyes has this poor cooling too as well as the same die size and solder issue as the 360. Sony seem to have made it huge with a huge (cheap) single fan to compensate, but after a while of use, the failures start.
Anyway, convection lesson aside, on the bottom of the heat sink and on the CPU and GPU will be white thermal paste. This is used to help transfer heat from the chip to the heat sink. Do not touch or eat this stuff! You MUST clean it off and replace it! Do not listen to enthusiasts claiming you don’t. Once old bonded paste has its bond broken, it becomes useless, and will not cure or bond again, resulting in inefficent cooling, and another YLOD…. I recommend Artic Silver, silver based paste is the best, but don’t put too much on, as it can be capacitive, resulting in shorts of components if it gets near them.
After you get the heat sink off, you can lift up the metal heat transfer shielding. Be very gentle with this as it is very thin and bending it could possibly cause the shielding to short out something on the motherboard when the PS3 is reassembled.
Now flip the motherboard over again, and remove the metal shielding on the other side and you will
now see the naked motherboard:
That’s it! We’re done with disassembly! To re-assemble, just follow my tutorial in reverse, making sure you plug in all cables fully (ribbon cables are finicky, if inserted slanted, can cause short circuits), and be very very careful with the heat transfer shields so that you don’t bend them and short out or crush something.
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I haven’t worked on a PS3 for a while, at work or home, so I decided to find a faulty one to tinker with, and teach Greg how to fix PS3’s while I was at it, as I’m the only one at KC who can fix consoles. So, I’ve bought one on eBay that supposedly has a faulty fan.
Mmm, simple fix, eh, you might think? No, not always so. A faulty fan on a Playstation can be several things. I’ve done failed fans in PS2’s as well.
A) Failed/stuck fan
Sometimes the fan’s just stuck, or outright given up. The PS3 fans are a lot cheaper than the high quality rifle bearing ones in the Xbox360, and they either seize up because of dust, heat, or sleeve coil/solder failure. To verify it is the fan, piggyback a multimeter into the fan connector on the motherboard (you’ll need to run the motherboard out of the case, the fan and socket are underneath the base). As long as the voltage is between 5 – 12v depending on the heat, it’s fine. Replacing the fan will solve this scenario, just make sure the fan is mounted tightly and where it can’t get stuck, as there’s play in the mounting holes for fine adjustment.
B) Failed temperature sense diode/thermostat control chip and/or relative fuses
If the voltage is non existant or too low/stuck on full at cold, with the fan not speeding up in relation to the heat rising, the temperature sense diode and or thermostat may have failed or be failing. The symptom of the fan being on full on a cold start is a result of this, the diode resistance sticks high making the controller chip think the CPU is too hot. A completely failed diode and control chip/fuse means the voltage will be at 0v. Resulting in an expensive rework and diagnostic job. Not for n00bs or towel trick merchants.
C) Failed fan voltage rail
The fan is fed through the thermostat controller, and this itself has fuses. If the voltage is at 0v, and you believe the diode/chip is working, replace the fuses (surface mount).
D) Failed Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) sense line
A failed sense line (pulse width modulation) will result in the PS3 thinking the fan isn’t spinning even though it will be operating normally. The console will inevitably shut down. Every RPM of the fan sens out a pulse, the faster the fan turns the more pulses it sends out to say “this is how fast I’m turning!” and the controller determines the RPM based on the pulses.
This can be either the fan, or the RPM sensor in the control chip. First cheap fix, second, expensive, as the whole control chip needs to be replaced.
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Because this court case involving Ventura seems to be just about Linux. <startSpoiltBratChildishVoice>“I can’t run Linux on my expensive crap liquorice slab PS3 anymore! BooHooHoo!”</endSpoiltBratChildishVoice>
To prove my point, why didn’t anyone complain or sue when Sony removed the PS2 compatibility? Because they knew it was crap anyway? Surely some die hard Sony fanatic must have cried because his new PS3 wouldn’t run the games of his PS2 that he’d thrown in the bin because the laser voltage had carked it for the 67 millionth time? And then felt the need to sue for $4 million to compensate for all the money he spent on tissues while crying?
Linux + Sony/Apple fanatics = Very sad deluded immature people easily conned into paying hundreds of pounds for cheap Chinese built TAT, and then can’t live without it!
Do you see us 360 users complaining we can’t run Linux? No, because Linux is for spotty nerds, it’s crap anyway, and with our console we can actually HACK IT TO PLAY BACKUPS, because we didn’t jump into Sony’s fantasy Blu-Ray world! That’s enough of a selling point for us!
Hah! And if you wanna run Linux, GET A PC!! PowerPC CPU’s are crap for Linux anyhow!
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When I reported that the sad demented Sony fanbois were up in arms over Sony’s recent removal of the Other OS feature from the PS3, they’ve now taken it a step further, and have gathered together like sad little girls (an insult to little girls!) to bring together a Class Action lawsuit against Sony.
But, there’s one big thing they’ve forgotten. More on that later. First, here’s the case details, from Kotaku:
In early April, Sony issued a new software update for the PlayStation 3 that eliminated the option to install an alternate operating system, like Linux, to the console. Now, a California man is suing Sony Computer Entertainment over the change.PlayStation 3 firmware 3.21—a mandatory update—went live on April 1, removing the “Install Other OS” feature present in the original version of the console. Sony Computer Entertainment reps said the decision to eliminate the feature was “due to security concerns,” that dropping a secondary operating system would “help ensure that PS3 owners will continue to have access to the broad range of gaming and entertainment content from SCE and its content partners on a more secure system.”
Plaintiff Anthony Ventura takes issue with that decision in a suit filed against SCEA in a North District of California court. The suit filed on his behalf believes the change “reflected Sony’s concerns that the Other OS feature might be used by ‘hackers’ to copy and/or steal gaming and other content.”
“Sony’s decision to force users to disable the Other OS function was based on its own interest and was made at the expense of its customers,” reads the complaint.
The class action suit was brought on behalf of “a nationwide class of all persons who purchased a PS3 during the period November 17, 2006 and March 27, 2010 and who did not resell their PS3” during that time.
The suit claims that the “Install Other OS” function was “extremely valuable.” According to the suit, the plaintiff he has not yet installed the latest firmware update so that he can continue to use the Other OS feature. The suit also notes that PS3 owners who choose not to update their firmware cannot access the PlayStation Network, play PS3 games online, nor can they play new games or Blu-ray videos that require firmware 3.21.
Ventura’s suit against the PlayStation maker seeks “damages for Plaintiff and each class member, including but not limited to compensatory damages; restitution; injuctive relief; attorneys’ fees; and the cost of this suit.” Specific sums are not listed, although court documents note “the amount in controversy is in excess of $5 million.”
You sad little morons! You need to go out and get a life, and a ladyfriend. There’s better hardware than the PS3 that can run Linux, I’m talking quad core processors? Core i7? You like spending loads of money on rubbish, buy something decent, for once!
But, there’s one thing these people have forgotten, that will probably get this thrown out of court. If you’ve ever read a user manual, have you noticed the line that says, “Specifications and design subject to change without notice“?
Hmm, thought not. It means that a device designer and manufacturer are legally allowed to change, improve and remove features as they see fit, and they DON’T have to consult customers. That includes firmware, Ventura.
Heh, let’s see how far you get now….. Out of millions, the one that starts legal action is a typical thick Californian. Americans are all the same!
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Sony’s PS3 is probably about to take another dive in sales, following the latest “update”. Sony have decided to remove the Install Other OS feature from PS3’s, because they feel it’s a backdoor for hackers to gain entry into the PS3’s inner soul, so, now, they’ve removed it! Ha! It’s caused anger on Sony’s forums, where they claim you don’t have to install the latest update, but it’ll render MarketPlace useless
Let’s see what else they’ve removed from their “market leading” console since its launch:
1. Card slots
2. PS1 & PS2 backward compatibility
3. Online play is free, but very painfully slow and laggy, whereas Xbox Live is paid for yet speedy
3. And now the Other OS feature has been removed
Now the PS3 is no better in features than the 360, when it actually DID have more on launch. Sony actually laughed at Microsoft for releasing several versions of the 360, branding it a joke, yet THEY followed suit! Sony, you can keep your boring liquorice slab, and it’s crap “exclusive” titles!
The only adavantage the PS3 has over the 360 at the moment is possibly a bigger HDD (but seeing as you can’t install PS3 games to the HDD anyway, what’s the point?) It is also a Blu-Ray player, but, hey, you can get a (decent) standalone one for just over £100! The PS3 used to be the only choice for playing Blu-Ray, but now it’s just a featureless, expensive lump of liquorice (that’s very difficult to program for)!
Look at XNA on the 360. The tools are free, you pay a subscription, and can showcase your games on Live. Sony charge through the nose, so that only massive software houses can develop for it (this has put some off in the past, remember the threats from EA?) Sony has had a record of crap marketing, crap quality hardware (I should know!), and paying people off to support their shitty 25 – 50GB disc format, where the games can be fitted on 360 on DVD. The SAME GAMES!! Where does the remaining 20 – 45GB capacity go?
Watch the fanbois flock to flame me now! Get lost, little girls!! You’ve just got GTA: Episodes from Liberty City, through crying and throwing your dummy in forums, now everyone else has moved on to better games!! The Xbox360 has had good games from the start, the developers have enjoyed its ease of coding.
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