TideLog Archive for December, 2015

If you lose your radio code, it can be expensive to go back to the dealer. There are even websites offering to get your code for a fee! Not any more, because I’ve discovered their secret, in the form of CalcGEN! It’s an application to allow you to obtain your code, as they are often generated using the serial and model numbers of your radio.

This tool is for vehicles up to 2009, I cannot guarantee it’ll work on newer ones. NOTE: Some vehicles after ’04 do NOT need a code, as the radios are wired to the CANbus, and are already electronically married to the Body ECU/Vehicle ECU. Simply reconnect the battery, if the radio works, you’re OK.

CalcGENInstructions:
Removal of the radio from the dash is required to obtain the information needed. It is your responsibility to obtain the manufacturer’s recommended tools, and to ensure this procedure is performed on YOUR personal vehicle. I cannot be held responsible for you using this tool, for it being used on rentals, hire purchase vehicles, stolen vehicles, or any other circumstances.

Download the tool by clicking HERE. Extract the tool, and run “CalcGEN_2009_crk.exe”. It is safe and virus free, hosted here on TideLog.

Ford Code:

Select Ford from the ‘code from serial option’

Select Ford M series from the dropdown menu

Enter the 6 digits from your serial number, missing out the letter M

Press calculate and your code is displayed.

Renault Code:

Select the “Code from serial” tab, then select Renault

Enter the last four characters from your radio bar code details i.e f123

Once entered your code is displayed.

Blaupunkt:

Covering all Alfa-Romeo, Citroen, FIAT, Peugeot, Nissan, Rover, and Vauxhall models that have been manufactured by Blaupunkt.

NOTE: Check it isn’t already wired to the CANbus. If the connector on the radio has CAN L & CAN H terminals, it shouldn’t need manual code entry and you can simply reconnect the battery, as the Body/Vehicle ECU is already electronically married (encrypted) to it, manual code entry is not needed.

1. Press the Blaupunkt button.

2. Find your part number starting 7 6, enter the 5th 6th and 7th digit, so if your part number is for example “P/N 7 641 372 001” you’d enter 372.

3. Next enter the last 7 digits of your radio serial number, radio serial number starts with BP.

4. When you have the 10 digits entered in to the calculator press the Standard button, and your code is displayed!

Note: Citroen, Peugeot, Alfa-Romeo and FIAT codes are displayed beside “FIAT code is:”

IMPORTANT: If anyone needs help, for the interests of security, DO NOT enter serial numbers in the comments! Email me at tidosho at gmail dot com instead. There are organised gangs that crawl the internet looking for revealed serial numbers, they reflash (program) stolen radios with known ones, and I want to keep you safe from fraud.

Comments 2 Comments »

Kana and Mika both want the three of us to be together when we’re out jet-skiing, so Mika and me have decided to band together to get her a new 3 seater ski to go with Sadie, her yellow 2009 2 seater one, as a Christmas surprise this year. I’ve sold off shares in companies which I no longer need, and Mika used some of her life savings. We all like Sadie, so don’t want to sell her or trade her in.

We’ve found a dealer in Porthmadog, Wales, offering a gorgeous 2015 GTX 300 that had only been used for 3 hours, then returned, for financial reasons. A jet-ski is like a car, as soon as a new one is used, it loses quite a bit of value, so we got this one for the super reasonable price of £9,000 instead of the usual £16,000. Mika and me went up to Wales one day last week when Kana was working, to check the new one out, and she’s a beauty:

Kana's-new-2015-SeaDoo-GTX-300-three-seater-jet-ski-at-the-dealerNeedless to say, we bought her the same day! Her spec list is as impressive as her looks:

Engine: 1.6 litre Rotax 4-Tec 1630 ACE 3 cylinder 300HP supercharged

Primary Color: Black & Deep Pewter Satin with gold seats/front stowage compartment trim

Year: 2016

Make: Sea-Doo

Model: GTX Limited 300

Type: Three Seater

Class: Personal Watercraft (PWC)

Length: 11′ 6″ (11ft 6in, a lot longer than Sadie!)

Weight: 412kg unladen

Features: Electronic iBR reverse system (allows quicker stopping, and dock manoeuvering), iControl Learning Key (A special programmable lanyard starter key that allows engine HP to be limited to teach learners to drive it, like Mika for example), Touring/Sport modes, safety kit, 3 position ski pylon for towed water-ski rider.

We took her on the water for a test run, she looks really mean against dark grey UK clouds, and she actually looks bigger and longer out on the water than she did at the dealership:

Kana's-new-2015-SeaDoo-GTX-300-three-seater-jet-ski-on-the-water

It was Mika’s first go as a jet-ski driver (and her first time in a wetsuit, which she was so cute in!), so I used the learning key to limit the horsepower, she absolutely had a blast, especially when I drove and opened the throttle a lot! I REALLY need to get a waterproof camera to take on-water shots of us! She’s so powerful, 300HP is quite a lot. The GTX 300 is a top end sports ski, if you’ve ever wanted to ride the water equivalent of a Kawasaki Ninja motorbike, the GTX is your girl, but fear not, she won’t bite your head off. Throttle response is gentle, yet rapid if you want it to be, just make sure you tell your passengers to hold on if you’re going to be a boy/girl water-racer, opening the throttle up!

The handlebars are adjustable for different riders, and the electronically assisted steering makes jet-skiing really addictive. I have Kana to thank for introducing me to this very addictive hobby, anyone thinking of doing it, go for it, get your wetsuit on and go get wet ‘n’ wild! But remember, it’s a dangerous sport, always adhere to rules, and speed limits, using common sense you’ll be fine.

Kana is going to LOVE her new present! I just wish we lived closer to water rather than having to drive out so far! It’s worth it for a day out, just make sure you carry enough octane fuel!

 

Comments No Comments »

Hoover washer dryers used to be synonymous with quality and could go 10 years plus without issues, but now they just seem to be dropping dead left right and centre when really young. In the space of one day today I’ve both had a Hoover engineer come out to my parent’s machine, for a motor replacement under Hoover warranty, and later that day I myself was called out to fix another Hoover washer dryer, both the same model, different faults.

WDYN856DG

The patient was a 2 year old WDYN856 DG washer/dryer, with no signs of life, except clicking noises, following a loud bang during a dry cycle. Clicking relays are usually always main control unit failure, so myself and Martin, my repair assistant, got to work. There was no other life from the programme selector dial, LED segment display unit, buttons, or their LED’s, apart from the clicking. We pulled the control unit out, it looked fine from within its casing, but once unclipped from it, we saw the catastrophic damage:

Hoover-WDYN856DG-control-unit-PCB-in-shieldHoover-WDYN856DG-control-unit-PCB

Can you guess where the actual brain of that massive washing machine is? Nope, none of the big components! That tiny chip that I’ve circled in red is the computer of the machine, smaller than a two-pence piece! The rest of the board is just power regulation, the control relays, and the outputs for the motor and element, plus all the connectors for sensors. The two small plugs on the very right-middle are the programming headers for programming the EEPROM. You can see the giant ferrite inductor coil, and those big heatsinks? That’s the transistor & Triac that control the motor speed, they act as an inverter and tacho control. The higher the switching frequency of those transistors, the faster the motor spins. They get mad hot, and very stressed, especially the massive transistor to the right of the coil.

Unfortunately, as you can see from the picture, around where the microcontroller is, that is where the failure has occurred. The area is all burnt, and has catastrophically shorted. The yellow highlight on the left is also where some damage to a diode, resistor and capacitor has occurred. The damage is actually worse than it looks in the picture.

We had to replace the motor, and the front-end option selection button unit as they were unresponsive even with a new control unit. We can’t be sure of the exact cause, but we suspect the motor has shorted, and as it’s directly wired to the transistors, has caused a massive short circuit, taking out the control unit and the option selection button unit (which itself had microcontrollers on it, but these were visually undamaged).

Unfortunately you can’t just buy a new control unit and connect it up, the EEPROM needs to be programmed with machine specific code, the machine will just flash an EEPROM communication error otherwise. We had the Hoover engineer programmer, so were OK 😉

Comments No Comments »